I thought we were flying to Seattle.
Instead, I found out that morning, we were heading to a small town east of Washington’s largest city city, to a place called Issaquah.
Issa-what?
At least that’s what I was saying in my head.
I’ve been to Seattle a bunch of times, even drove as far as Marysville once. But I had never been — or even heard of — Issaquah.
Turns out, it’s quite a city.
I was shocked at how many people knew about it when I posted my travel itinerary on social media. My girlfriend grew up there, her mom works for the school district, and others have lived or worked or traveled through for years.
Where has this place been all my life?
Here’s some background on Issaquah: The population here is close to 30,500. The name, “Issaquah,” is some kind of misspelling of a local Native American word that could mean “sound of the birds,” “snake” or “little stream.” It was a mining town that turned into a lumber town that turned into a highly desirable residential suburb, ranked the second fastest-growing ‘burn in the state by Forbes.com.
And it’s gorgeous, surrounded on three sides by the Issaquah Alps: Cougar, Squak and Tiger mountains. To the north is Lake Sammamish.
Oh, just something you’d see walking around Issaquah. So gorgeous.
We were here visiting a relative — and just for about 48 hours.
I thought, at first, that would be more than enough time to see this charming little town.
Boy, was I wrong.
That wasn’t enough time to just EAT in this city, packed with old-fashioned diners and cozy restaurants.
So if you ever find yourself heading to Issaquah and you’re wondering what to do, look no further. Here’s your travel plans:
1. Get breakfast at Issaquah Cafe
Issaquah Cafe (1580 NW Gilman Blvd., 425-391-9690) is one of those hometown restaurants in a strip mall — and it’s so worth the visit. It was just a comfortable place to get a hearty breakfast. I can see why it’s so popular.
One of the specials that morning was this omelet with bell peppers, onions, cheese and smothered in the restaurant’s country sausage gravy.
Here’s the chicken fried steak — a tenderized piece of steak (often round steak) doused in fried chicken batter — with that same gravy. You can’t get this back in Hawaii, so we ate as much of it as humanly possible.
White sausage gravy like this has bits of sausage on it — but it’s also cooked with that same pork fat. That’s what makes it so good — and so bad.
In addition to gravy — I realize that’s all I talked about! — the cafe serves up other breakfast items including pancakes, cinnamon rolls and these pumpkin waffles.
2. Tour the Issaquah Salmon Hatchery
There’s a government-run salmon hatchery right in downtown Issaquah (125 W. Sunset Way, 425-392-1118). You can tour it during daylight hours on your own. Most times there are docents available to show you around. But we went at possibly the worst time ever — a Sunday morning in the summer, when not much is happening. Still, it was interesting to learn what happens here.
Fall is the most active time at the hatchery, when adult chinook and coho salmon return here. The staff begins trapping adult salmon for brood stock in September through November, collecting eggs and milt, fertilizing eggs, and getting them settled into incubation trays. The hatchery also raises rainbow trout.
In early October, the hatchery — and really the entire town — celebrates the salmon return with Issaquah Salmon Days Festival (www.salmondays.com), a two-day block party of sorts in downtown Issaquah with workshops, live music, food and more. (It’s on my bucket list.)
3. Get a root beer float from XXX Root Beer Drive-In
According to the company, XXX Root Beer Drive-In (98 NE Gilman Blvd., 425-392-1266) was the first drive-in in the Pacific Northwest, established in 1930. The combination of the XXX brand of root beer and food worked and the concept spread across the country. There’s only two XXX drive-ins left — here and in Lafayette, Ind. It’s been in this location since 1968. And car shows here are a regular thing.
This sign outside the drive-in really sets the tone.
The drive-in’s got an extensive menu, with its burgers as the highlight. The Incredible XXX Burger is touted as the juiciest and messiest around, with three different cheeses, grilled onions, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles with the drive-in’s homemade dressing and freshly baked buns. If I hadn’t just eaten breakfast, I would have devoured this — and suffered later!
The decor really looks like this: a mess of ’50s and ’60s memorabilia literally strewn everywhere.
We just wanted to try the root beer, for which is what this place is known. The recipe dates back to 1930 and still made the same way. The float uses premium Darigold ice cream, and you can order them in frosted mugs. Perfection!
4. Lunch at JaK’s Grill
We stumbled upon JaK’s Grill (28 Front St., 425-837-8834) while walking around the historic downtown area. And from the line that waiting outside, we figured it was worth checking out.
JaK’s has three locations — the other two are in Laurelhurst and West Seattle — and it prides itself on being that great little neighborhood bar and grill. Which is certainly is.
We happened to be there just in time for Sunday brunch, so we tried the JaK Bene, its take on the classic eggs Benedict but with its signature potato pancakes, grilled filet mignon and poached eggs topped with a Béarnaise sauce and served with freshly baked brioche bread.
They were still cooking the barbecue pork, so we settled with the steak sandwich, made with marinated Nebraska aged New York steak, grilled to order and served on a steak butter toasted roll with the house au jus.
5. Stop at Boehm’s Candies & Chocolates
My girlfriend’s mom teaches in Issaquah and sends her candies from Boehm’s Candies & Chocolates (255 NE Gilman Blvd., 425-392-6652). She told me it’s a must-stop, so naturally I went.
The company was founded by the Swiss-Austrian Julius Boehm, who immigrated to the U.S. in 1940. He and partner George Tedlock opened the first candy kitchen in the north end of Seattle, then moved the company to Issaquah in 1956. He built the Edelweiss Chalet (photo above this one) and an alpine chapel. He lived here until he passed away in 1981. Today, Bernard Garbusjuk runs the company, having worked with Boehm for 10 years. The focus is still on handcrafted chocolates and candies.
And look what we found: a little bit of Hawaii here.
In fact, this is one of the chocolatier’s best-selling candy!
Boehm’s featured a nice range of products, too, from these molded chocolate medallions to decadent, European-style truffles to classic chewy caramels and nut clusters. And the staff gives out free samples!
6. Eat (again) at 12th Avenue Grill
Another recommendation: 12th Avenue Grill (775-G NW Gilman Blvd., 425-392-5975) in the Issaquah Commons shopping complex.
This place was packed on a Sunday afternoon. Maybe it’s because you can order breakfast all day long. (That’s always a draw.) Or maybe it’s because this neighborhood diner serves up classic comfort food like warm Belgian waffles, homemade buttermilk biscuits topped with white sausage gravy, blueberry pancakes, loaded baked potatoes and hearty chili topped with cheese, onions and garlic bread.
We went for the French dip, with sliced roast beef served on toasted French bread with au jus.
And here’s the fish and chips — four pieces of ale-battered halibut, deep fried and served with either tartar sauce or malt vinegar, with a load of fries on the side.
And to finish the meal, get the homemade cinnamon roll slathered in icing with golden raisins and a syrupy cinnamon glaze that was to die for.
Not bad, Issaquah, not bad!
8 Comments
I’m glad you enjoyed your visit! My mom also likes it because at a higher elevation than Seattle, you get more sunny days. And her classroom faces one of the mountains. You’ve made me more excited for my July Seattle trip!
Hello Cat,
I thought you went there for a work assignment unless eating was the assignment.
As you know Cat I lived there for six years when I was a Microsoft employee, drove up the west side of Lake Sammamish to work in Redmond. My daughter went to Overlake School. I remember the cold waters of Lake Sammamish from being on a crew there. 12th Ave cafe opened when I lived there and it was a short walk from where I lived. We had a three story condo on 5th avenue. Jak’s first location opened when we were there and it quickly grew. I am really curious if you ate at the Flying Pie Pizzeria as we almost bought it in 2000. For all I know it is no longer there. XXX Root Beer Drive Inn had hands down the best malted milkshake I have ever had… all bazillion calories of it.
There is a great BBQ sandwich place as well as a really good Greek and Thai restaurant on Gilman Blvd. Snoqualmie Falls for Sunday Brunch is a must do as well. Anyway, used to walk my dog up and down those railroad tracks everyday wearing my Gortex raincoat. seeing the vintage cars brought back a lot of good memories. I moved there from Hawaii and then back to Hawaii. Thanks for the memories!
Thanks for your excellent write up about our “little” town! love your blog.
I also work for the school district…I wonder if I know your friend’s mom?
As for dbjack’s wonder, yes, Flying Pie is still open!
CAT: Aaaiiiyyyaaahhh! Fuud Pix! Tenks! I gained 5 lbs just looking at the fuud pix!
Hi Cat! Great travel blog. Wonderful food as usual!
Funny scrolling down through all those pictures of delicious-looking food that is definitely not for the thin-aspiring, and seeing the “Great Weight Debate” posting with its OMG scale reading and feet right at the end of it.
The town has a very midwestern look to it, other than for the salmon industry and mountains around it.
Thank you for taking us along on your latest travel adventure.
Aloha Cat: I “retired” from PBN in 2009 after about 20 years with them, most as copy editor; I know we have many friends in common. I moved to Issaquah that summer and have loved every minute I have spent here. You sure found some of our finest eateries (but we have lots more so you might want to return). I’ve been a docent at the salmon hatchery for four years teaching all comers about our salmon and the annual miracle that happens right in the middle of our town every year. You need to return in the fall when our salmon are returning; I’d be happy to give you a personal tour. Sure enjoyed your blog and will share it with folks who ask me what terrific Issaquah is all about.